Anastasia Avramenko has expanded on this in their article for Italy’s Tuorlo Magazine, which you can read here.

Truffles don’t know where the borders are, and suggesting they have changing attributes when they cross an imaginary, artificially drawn line makes no sense. We import a lot of truffles from Istria in Croatia which used to be a part of Italy. So surely, if someone says, Italian truffles taste better, the truffles wouldn’t change their flavour when they became Croatian!

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Cheese, truffle, butter, all things that go well together. You need a lot less truffle to make this than you think. Only a couple of thin slices go between each slice of cheese. Leave it a few days wrapped tight, and the truffle will infuse the cheese.

Method
1. Get 4 slices of a medium strong semi-hard cheese (or whatever your heart desires, really). Either raclette (pictured), gruyere or young comte is my choice, and intersperse in between each slice with a single layer of sliced black truffle. Wrap tight in cling film, store in fridge for up to 1-2 days.

2. When ready to cook, temper for 30mins. Meanwhile butter two thick slices of brioche. If you have truffle butter, use it.

3. In a medium pan, melt a little butter until it starts to bubble and drop your sandwich in. When one side is done, drop another little dollop of butter and do the other side. Crucial step, believe me, it will smell and taste amazing.

4. Don’t let the sugars in your brioche burn, so flip it every 30seconds. Once the bread has browned and crisped uniformly, turn the heat all the way down and flip until cheese centre melts. This takes a while. Slow down. Take your time.

5. With a serrated knife, cut off the edges, then straight down the middle. Admire your x-section, then quarter it so you get nice squares. Finish it until the hot grill in the oven at full blast for 30s to further melt the cheese.

6. Serve with pickles, endive or whatever salad you like. Enjoy.

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Truffle Butter Porridge

 A recipe by Chef Jeremy Chan

Ingredients 

300g organic oats

300g whole milk

Water

Organic honey to taste

Wiltshire Truffles / Ampersand truffle butter to taste

Smoked salt to taste

Method

1. Toast the oats in a smoking hot pan, stirring so they don’t catch.
2. Add to a pot once nice and smokey.
3. Bring 150g water to the boil with the oats.
4. Meanwhile, have 300g milk warm.
5. Gradually add the milk to the oats and keep stirring until the desired consistency is achieved. I like mine with the oats still slightly al dente and a creamy sauce.
6. Glaze with honey and smoked salt, then finish with slabs of truffle butter. Allow to rest for two minutes before eating.

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To recreate this incredible sauce at home is really simple, you’ll just need a tin of our truffle juice and two packs of our Ampersand cultured truffle butter. You can also make it with regular butter for a still delicious, although less truffley experience…

Wiltshire Truffle Beurre Blanc

 A recipe by Chef Alex Dilling

Ingredients – serves 4

100 ml White Wine

50ml White wine Vinegar

1/2 Shallot (Finely Diced)

1 Sprig Thyme

1 200g Can Wiltshire Truffles Truffle Juice

15 ml Double Cream

2 packs (240g) Wiltshire Truffles / Ampersand Truffle Butter (diced and cold)

Chives finely cut

Lemon Juice to taste

Salt to taste

Method

1. In a saucepan add the white wine, vinegar, thyme, shallots and truffle juice and bring to the boil.
2. Reduce until 3-4 tablespoons remain.
3. Add the cream and bring back to the boil then pass through a fine sieve to remove the shallots and thyme.
4. On a low heat in a clean pan keep the reduction just warm and slowly whisk in the diced butter piece by piece until fully incorporated and emulsified. Do not let it come close to boiling.
5. Taste the sauce and season with salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Add chives.

Serving suggestions

• Incredible spooned over vegetables especially green and white asparagus.
• Boiled jersey royal potatoes lightly crushed with a fork.
• Works well with white meats such as roast veal chop.
• For a special experience (may need a double quantity of beurre blanc) blanch a lobster in boiling water for 4 min. Submerge in ice water. Remove the meat from the shell and cook in the beurre blanc at around 58c for 12 min until warm in the centre. It must be completely submerged in the sauce to cook evenly – serve with sautéed spinach.

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Almost all are made with an artificial truffle flavouring, which ruins your appreciation of the wonderfully complex natural flavour and aroma of real truffles.

Truffles have a very subtle flavour, yet one that is utterly wonderful when you come to know and appreciate it. They can add a seductive earthy umami to other flavours, often creating something very special that is greater than the sum of its parts. You may not always actively notice it as truffle, but if the truffle were removed you would notice immediately that the dish or product has lost its magic.

The problem is that “truffle” products have changed general perceptions of how truffle actually tastes. They are very overpowering – assaulting your tastebuds in a bad way, leaving an unpleasant lingering aftertaste which gets worse the more often you experience it. Even when only consumed occasionally in tiny quantities, this artificial truffle flavouring can limit your future ability to taste and appreciate real truffles.

The main chemical generally used in truffle products – 2,4 dithiapentane – is an artificially created version of one of the many flavour components in fresh truffles. But if you eat fresh truffles regularly, you’ll know that it is like comparing cheap artificial strawberry sweets to a delicious fresh seasonal strawberry.

Trading standards law seems to allow this chemical to be described as either ‘aroma’ or ‘flavouring’. The word ‘aroma’ sounds natural and lovely – it just means ‘smell’ of course – so its use here could be misleading. Meanwhile I don’t understand why ‘flavouring’ doesn’t have to be called ‘artificial truffle flavour’ – as it in no way comes from a real truffle.

Have a look at the ingredients list of any truffle product on the shelf in the supermarket or delicatessen – you will always see the words ‘truffle flavour’, ‘flavouring’ or ‘aroma’ on the list of ingredients. Occasionally you will also see the words ‘natural truffle flavouring’, but ‘natural’ does not mean that the flavouring came from a truffle – merely that the flavouring used was originally derived from any plant or animal source.

Of course, truffle products do often contain real truffle as well. These truffles will usually be contributing no flavour whatsoever – they are simply there so that the marketing for the product can say “made with real truffles”. If you took away the artificial chemicals, there would be little to zero taste of actual truffles in the product.

Truffle products aimed at home chefs are almost invariably made with the cheapest and least prized varieties of truffles. This is based on the fact that most buyers won’t really know which truffle variety is which, and since the truffles are being put in the product just for marketing rather than flavour, there’s no point in using the more prized varieties, as it would hugely increase the price with no real benefit. They are relying entirely on the fact that the general public won’t know the Latin names so will assume that the product contains the more expensive and famous varieties.

For example, I saw a ‘white truffle butter’ that contained “5% white truffles”. However, these were Spring White truffles (tuber borchii) – a relatively cheap and less known variety that very few home users will ever have heard of or tasted fresh – rather than ‘proper’ white truffles (tuber magnatum pico) which is what everyone thinks of when white truffles are discussed. Tuber borchii have a unique mild, garlicky and slightly gassy flavour – they’re quite nice in a way, but no respectable chef would ever call them “white truffles” on a menu, for fear of misleading diners. Of course, this distinctive and unusual flavour cannot be detected at all in the finished product. Instead the butter also contains artificial ‘white truffle flavour’ – so tastes of an unpleasant and cloying chemical version of proper white truffles – proving beyond doubt that the actual truffles contained in the butter are pretty much tasteless in the finished product.

Black truffle products are normally made with the cheapest and most tasteless variety of all – black summer truffles (tuber aestivum). Later in the season summer truffles start to develop a pleasant – but still fairly mild – earthy and mushroomy flavour. In the earlier part of their season they are almost completely without taste or aroma – you might as well grate cardboard onto your food – they’re used for appearance only. This – together with their very low price – makes them perfect for use in truffle products, where they can just make up the numbers so the product can be marketed as containing real truffles, with all flavour and aroma being entirely artificial.

The simple fact, as everyone knows, is that the best fresh truffles are expensive. This reflects their seasonality, rarity and how hard it is to either cultivate them or hunt them in the wild. If you’re buying a product that costs just a few pounds, it’s simply not possible that it could be flavoured with real truffle – there’s no such thing as a free lunch. You can’t take an expensive and precious ingredient, spend even more money processing it into something else, and then sell it for a fraction of the cost – it just doesn’t add up.

You need to use a lot of top quality fresh truffle to get any flavour at all in most products. And even then the flavour would be relatively mild, therefore not appreciated by those used to the intensely flavoured, mass produced, artificial products. Fresh truffles have a delicate flavour and need to be used at their very freshest and very best, in generous quantities and on the correct dish, to appreciate them.

Truffles are also extremely volatile and vary hugely in intensity and flavour, needing to be very carefully sourced and looked after to get the best out of them. They’re certainly not suitable to be used in the industrial manufacture of long life retail products.

Occasionally truffle products may contain a tiny quantity of the best truffle varieties in them – tuber melanosporum or tuber magnatum pico. However, these will usually have been totally sterilized, killing off all the life and flavour they had when fresh, and making them almost tasteless.

That little bit of ‘real truffle’ you see floating in the bottom of your truffle oil? It wouldn’t be permitted to have it there in an ambient storage product if it hadn’t been pasteurized – products containing fresh truffles have a shorter shelf life and must be refrigerated. Leaving a raw fungus for a long time in an oil is unsafe and could cause botulism, amongst other things. Therefore, it has had all its life boiled out of it and is there just for show. All the actual flavour in the oil is artificial.

Fresh white truffles should never be used for truffle products. They are far too delicate and precious, also they also have very little actual taste to them – they are prized entirely for their wonderful and intense aroma. They’re very expensive of course, but when at their best they’re worth every penny – even if you can only afford to eat them once a year, or even once in a lifetime, then do it – it’s the only way to experience the true magic of white truffles. All commercial truffle oils – even the most expensive ones – are fake.

Our advice – avoid all standard retail truffle products. Instead, make your own. If you buy top quality very fresh or frozen black truffles you can make delicious sauces, pâté, cheese, butter, ice cream, salt, paste and many other things. They will be expensive, have a short shelf life and will be much less overpowering than the artificially flavoured stuff – but will be infinitely more complex, delicious, satisfying and rewarding.

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A controversial statement? Yes. True? Also yes. Allow me to explain…

Alba is a town in the province of Cuneo, in the region of Piedmonte in north western Italy. Truffles do not grow in towns. So the truth is that no truffles at all come from Alba.

OK so I’m being a bit pedantic. You could say that truffles may not grow in the town but that they grow in the woods all around Alba. Well I’ve been to Alba many times and, if you have too, you’ll know that there are very few trees around Alba. Vineyards, yes. Woodlands, not so much.

Of course, there always have been white truffles found in the wider region of Piedmont, including a very small amount that are hunted quite close to Alba. The world of white truffles is very secretive so there is no way to know exactly how many of Europe’s white truffles come from this region, but my guess would be that it’s much less than 5%.

But “Alba” truffles are the best, right? They’re the ‘proper’ white truffles and the others are ‘fake’… a bit like comparing a bootleg Gucci handbag to the ‘real thing’? Absolutely not.

I’ve been lucky enough to smell and taste a huge number of white truffles. I mean a really huge amount. I obviously couldn’t afford to do so if I didn’t work in the industry, but fortunately I do. I’ve also had the chance to go out hunting them with many of our partners. So I’ve been able to compare white truffles from many different sources.

I’ve had some delicious truffles which were definitely hunted in Piedmonte as I saw them coming out of the ground, but I would say the best Italian white truffle I have ever experienced came from Emilia Romagna, in the hills around Modena. I’ve also had excellent white truffles from Tuscany, Lombardy, Marche, Umbria and Abruzzo.

And the best white truffle I’ve ever had? Very hard to say, as so much of the aroma and flavour that one experiences is influenced by other external factors; but I would say the most incredible truffle I’ve ever held in my hands, smelt and eaten came from either the Croatian peninsular of Istria or from the huge oak forests of Southern Hungary. Or maybe from Serbia. So not from Alba, but also not from Piedmont or even Italy.

We should be very careful about generalizing whole countries, or even regions, for the quality of their truffles. Truffles don’t know where the borders are, and it’s impossible to say that the truffles from any one country are the best. It’s far more localized than that.

As a truffle hunter myself, I know that sometimes the truffles from a particular wood may tend to be better than those from another wood. Or even one small part of a wood which produces better truffles than those from a different part of the same wood.

There are so many factors that influence the quality and aroma of a truffle: the host tree, the soil, the climate, the humidity, the aspect, the time of year – and above all just the random genetic selection of nature in a wild and inconsistent product. An incredible truffle can be found growing right next to an indifferent one.

All truffle varieties vary, but none more so than white truffles. They are hugely influenced by their immediate local environment. Some are underwhelming and disappointing. Others have an intense and wonderful aroma that you will never forget for the rest of your life.

So why are white truffles often still called “Alba” truffles? Well it all goes back to some very clever marketing nearly a century ago, primarily by a man called Giacomo Morra. He promoted the idea of the ‘Alba white truffle’ to a global audience, most famously by sending free truffles as gifts to famous politicians and films stars. So white truffles, which have been growing wild for millennia all across much of Italy and Eastern Europe, became widely known as “Alba” truffles. And the name stuck.

Over the years, many Italian truffle companies have pushed very hard to continue the myth that the best white truffles can only come from Alba, or at least from Italy. But actually white truffles are found growing in a wide band from the south of central Italy right up to the centre of Eastern Europe. Many are hunted in Serbia, Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Albania, Greece, much of Central and Northern Italy, a small part of France and there have even now been reports of findings in Switzerland.

The vast majority of truffles found by hunters in Eastern Europe have, for many decades, been taken across the border into Italy before being sold on as “Italian” truffles. This is a scam that has been going on so long and is very widely known about and understood within the industry.

In the old days the locals in most Eastern European countries placed no value on truffles; in some places it was even illegal to hunt them until very recently. In most Eastern European countries the word for truffles is the Italian one – “tartufi”.

Every autumn Alba hosts its world famous white truffle fair – which runs for six weeks and has hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world. During this time many hunters across Italy and Eastern Europe struggle to have enough truffles to go around, as so many are being bought to be sold on at the fair in Alba.

Does anyone really believe, when they think about it, that all those many thousands of truffles being sold on the display tables at the Alba fair, are really all hunted in a few small woods in the province of Cuneo around Alba? Even in seasons, like 2017, when there are hardly any truffles to be found anywhere? It’s mathematically and biologically impossible.

Many Italian truffle companies push very hard that their truffles are “100% Italian”. I have two issues with this. Firstly, there can be no disputing the fact that easily the biggest buyers of Eastern European white truffles are Italian truffle companies; it has always been this way. In the shadowy world of white truffles the true source is almost impossible to verify and there have been many documented and proven cases of fraud by well known Italian truffle companies.

My second problem with the strong promotion of “100% Italian” white truffles is the (incorrect) implication that Italian truffles are always better than those from other countries. As if though a wild truffle found one side of an imaginary line is ‘genuine’, but one found just the other side is somehow lesser or ‘fake’. This is preposterous and completely untrue.

The important thing to remember is that Italian truffles are absolutely not necessarily better than those from other countries. How could the quality and aroma of a wild fungus suddenly change when you cross an imaginary line drawn on a map by humans?

The scams have not been at all about passing an inferior product off as a better one. The reasons for the subterfuge have been entirely related to marketing. The myth of Italian truffles is a strong one, and a slice of ‘la dolce vita’ has long been a romantic ideal that has looked good on menus.

But, thankfully, times are changing. The hunters in other countries are realizing that they can now openly export their truffles direct to the major markets – for example New York, Hong Kong, the Middle East and London. They no longer need to sell them to Italy first.

So, while some still do, a growing proportion of truffles every year are exported direct from the source. This means not only slightly less expensive truffles (as there is no Italian company acting as a middleman and taking a cut), but much fresher (and therefore better) truffles too – freshness is so important with white truffles, much more so than with any other variety.

There is also now a new breed of honest truffle supplier – one that is deeply passionate about high quality truffles, but very keen to tell those that serve and eat their truffles exactly where they have come from. Obviously this is what we do in the U.K., but there are others like us in other countries too. Simultaneously, most chefs want to be proud of their amazing produce and its true origin – and diners want to know exactly what they’re eating.

More and more leading chefs are learning that amazing white truffles can be sourced not only from the area around Alba, but also from many other parts of Italy and from other countries too. The vast majority of these chefs care only about the quality, aroma and freshness of their truffles.

None of the magic of white truffles is lost by knowing where they really come from. The main thing that makes them so utterly wonderful is their aroma; the second factor is their seasonality and rarity, along with the mysterious and exciting way they are hunted. The hunters, truffle dogs, trees, hills, woodlands and traditions of Croatia, Hungary, Serbia and other Eastern European countries are just as magical as their Italian counterparts.

I love Italy. I used to live there, speak basic Italian, have many friends across the country and travel there a few times each year. I also love Italian truffles and will always source some of our white truffles from our trusted long term partners there, as they can be of the most fantastic quality. But we’re also keen to let everyone know that the white truffles from other countries can be just as good, or sometimes even better…

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Kicking things off here is our very old friend Guy Manning from The Red Lion Freehouse in Wiltshire. Guy is a fantastic cook – having worked at Chez Bruce then Per Se he has for the last decade been receiving untold acclaim for his incredible food at The Red Lion, winning a Michelin star 5 years ago and keeping it ever since.

Here he serves his take on a classic summer soup, and it goes SO well with Australian black winter truffles…

Ajo Blanco with truffles

A recipe by Chef Guy Manning

1 cup (6 oz) blanched almonds
4 slices crustless white bread, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes
3 garlic cloves
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 1/2 cups (20 fl. oz) cold water
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
salt

Method: soak together overnight and then spin until smooth.

Garnish with white wine poached apple, fennel oil, wet almonds, sourdough croutons and chive flowers.

Then microplane black winter truffle generously over the top at the table side.

Garnish instructions:

Poached apple: Dice apple and then poach in a white wine solution made as follows: bring 1 bottle of white wine to the boil, skim any foam then add 3 cups water and 1 cup sugar. Return to the boil until sugar has dissolved then stir in the juice of a lemon.

Fennel oil: blanch fennel fronds and parsley in boiling water for 15 seconds then plunge in to an ice bath. Dry, chop and then blend with olive oil.

Sourdough croutons: cut bread, bake in oven with olive oil until crisp.

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Firstly, and most importantly of all, make sure your truffles are as fresh as possible when you buy them. This sounds obvious but often (from some other companies!) truffles can already be a week or two old by the time they get to your kitchen.

We always source our truffles directly from the woods – either hunted by me with my own dogs, or bought direct from our partners abroad and then sent to us straight  after being hunted. Either way, we work hard on always getting the truffles to your kitchen very soon after they have come out of the ground. Our turnaround of stock is extremely rapid; we never have old truffles sitting around.

When truffles are this fresh they should, after purchase, last at least a week (white truffles) or two weeks (black truffles). But – and this is very important – the shelf life of individual truffles varies a lot. They are a fungus that grows underground and they’re absolutely not a consistent product with a fixed shelf life. So while one truffle can last many weeks in good condition, another one from exactly the same hunt may smell amazing when you hunt it, but deteriorate within a day or two of coming out of the ground.

For this reason, it is essential to manage your stock of truffles. Check them daily. Have a good look at each truffle – most chefs should be able to tell which ones look like they will last longer than others. Of course those that look like they won’t last as long should be used first. If a truffle has gone very slightly soft, but still smells amazing, then use that one first. A very firm truffle will usually last longer,

Remember that the point of a truffle is its aroma – so if it still smells amazing then it’s fine to use. A truffle would smell bad, or lose its aroma completely, long before it becomes unsafe to eat. So the fundamental rule is – if it smells good then it is good.

White truffles generally slowly reduce in aroma gradually after harvest. For this reason it is best to buy them often in small quantities. During the white season we receive fresh deliveries almost every single day. But if bought very fresh they should be good for at least a week. The exception to this is at the very start of the season – usually late September – at this point their shelf life can often be only a day or two. If buying early white truffles, use them as soon as you possibly can.

Black truffles generally actually improve in aroma after coming out of the ground. In our experience a black truffle will generally hit its peak aroma about 5-6 days after hunting and then remain good for at least another week or so after that. However, as already mentioned, each individual truffle’s shelf life can vary considerably. As a general rule you should always aim to use all truffles sooner rather than later and avoid sitting on a large amount of stock for a long time.

So… how to store them? Well firstly – in the fridge. Maybe this is obvious, but I’ve seen restaurants having truffles sitting around on display in a warm dining room, or next to a very warm pass, and then being surprised when they don’t last long. If you want to put a truffle on display that’s fine, but aim to use it up on the same day. Truffles are extremely volatile, especially white truffles, and any time spent out of the fridge – especially in a very hot kitchen – will make the truffles deteriorate much quicker. A fridge temperature of 2-5 degrees Celsius is perfect.

The traditional Italian way is to store truffles in rice, but we don’t recommend it. Rice pulls the moisture out of things (hence why if you drop your phone in water you should put it in rice to dry it out). Since truffles are over 80% water its clearly not a good idea to dry them out – it seems to pull the life out of a truffle. It will almost certainly stop them going mouldy, but at the cost of drying out your precious truffles this seems to be a mistake.

In theory truffles will ‘flavour’ the rice in which they are stored, but in practice I have found that this flavour is removed from the rice when cooked – so unless you plan to eat raw rice, this is pointless. Eggs, however, can take on the flavour of truffles really well through their shells – so it can be a nice idea to put some eggs in with your truffles for a few days before lightly cooking them – ideally then also covering them in fresh truffle slices when serving of course.

We recommend wrapping each truffle in kitchen paper, or at least lining the box with a double layer of kitchen paper, and then storing the truffles in an airtight container – plastic or glass. Truffles give off gases that will change their environment, so it’s vital to open the container every day and allow fresh air into it – even if you’re not using the truffles. They also give off moisture, so every day (or 2 days maximum) you will need to change the kitchen paper which will be wet. You should also wipe the inside of the container of any moisture that has formed.

It’s very important to carefully inspect each truffle every day. If any traces of white mould have formed on the surface of the truffle, this must be immediately brushed off when you see it – a clean dry toothbrush is ideal. This mould is totally harmless, but if left it will quickly colonise the truffle and cause it to deteriorate. I would suggest using any truffles that have shown traces of white mould on them first, as it’s often an indicator of a shorter shelf life. As always follow the rule that if it smells good then it is fine to use – if it doesn’t smell good then it should be discarded immediately.

You can also vac pack truffles. This is unquestionably the best way to keep truffles at their best but there are three essential rules to follow. Firstly, don’t let the machine pack them too tight. Remove almost all the air, but don’t let the truffles be crushed. Set your machine appropriately, or manually stop the air being sucked when almost all of it is removed. Secondly, wrap the truffles in kitchen paper before packing them, to soak up any moisture. Thirdly you must open the vac packs every two days, allow the truffles to air for a moment and change their paper towels, then repack them. This last step is vital as truffles left vac packed for more than two days will start to sweat in their own juices and the aroma will become musty and less pleasant. So never leave them vac packed for more than two days at a time. Note – white truffles respond less well to vac packing – we recommend doing this only for all types of black truffles.

Although truffles should remain in the fridge at all times for a longer shelf life, for the best aroma and taste you should bring a truffle out of the fridge at least 15 minutes before serving it. As with all ingredients, flavour is increased when the truffle is closer to room temperature. If doing this it’s best to use the whole truffle up rather than returning it to the fridge, although a very fresh truffle should usually be able to withstand a service or two of coming out of the fridge and then returning overnight.

And if you’ve bought too many truffles and can’t use them all fresh? Black truffles actually freeze very well (more on this to come in another post) so you can seal them tight and then put them in the freezer, where they’ll keep for ages. Note – freezing is for black truffles only; white truffles do not freeze well – although honey truffles certainly do. Alternatively you can grate or chop any truffle into butter, it will then keep beautifully in the fridge for as long as the butter lasts – most likely a few weeks – and can then be used in so many fantastic ways – on steak, fish, cooked vegetables, in pasta, on toast, popcorn, mashed potatoes… the list is endless. You can also freeze this butter of course. A pot of truffle butter is officially A Good Thing to have in the fridge or freezer…

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